Current Home Improvement Part 6: Painting and Patching

March 22, 2024March 25, 2024 Jen HLeave a comment

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links, at no cost to you. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases. However, I only recommend products I would use myself and all opinions expressed here are my own.

Kinda looked and felt like this all week long. Image by Ryan McGuire from Pixabay

So, the past week or two has been a rough start. Between daylight savings that nobody alive today asked for, too many errands, and a bunch of unnecessary hurdles…it feels like trying to kickstart a motorcycle that’s out of gas whilst trying to herd feral cats.

Today it’s really bumming me out. Why? Because I keep running into ish like this:

It seems like whenever we find our groove and we’re making real headway with a project, right when we’ve found our rhythm, there’s an obstacle. This time it came in the form of about 50 holes in the wall.

Half of which were ½” drywall anchor holes, and 5 of the holes were on the ceiling. One of the ceiling holes was 1 inch in diameter. Like what the….were you trying to hang a bike in here or something??

It took two rounds of spackle/sand/wipe before all of those were filled and blended. Never in my life did I ever think I would see the bottom of a 32oz pail of spackling. That’s the one I always use. It gets the job done well and it’s color changing: one less thing I have to remember. Anyhow, here I am. This is why we can’t have nice things, folks. Because people don’t take care of them.

Then there’s all of the dark paint taps where the ceiling meets the wall. I have to go over and over that edge to cover them up before I can paint the whole ceiling. I have no idea why, but there’s a lot more of those in this bedroom than the last one.

TIP: Nobody’s perfect, but painter’s tape, precision, and taking breaks will go a long way in helping you avoid those dreaded paint taps on the ceiling. Just sayin’.

Then there’s whatever the Art School Reject is going on here:

At least that’s not a big deal because I’m already covering up a bunch of dark paint. But it reminds me of Art that needs to be explained (because it’s terrible) and all they keep saying is “It’s abstract.”

Or a room in a 1950’s home, where according to Brewster Home Fashion it was commonplace to see 2-3 different wallpaper prints in the same room. This house is from the early 2000’s, and I’ve seen smudges of at least 4 different paint colors in this one room to include a peach/salmon color, a dark teal, purple, brown, etc. Same-same, but different…apparently the apple really doesn’t fall far form the tree.

Despite it all, I am making progress. This picture represents the first coat of white is on bedroom #2’s walls. I’m ecstatic that I don’t have to look at the leopard pattern of spackle splotches anymore.

Setback #2

Whilst working on refreshing the ceiling, I ran into another unexpected setback. I was touching up the ceiling edge with what I thought was the same ceiling paint as before. It was, except for the brand name. Apparently, that made a huge difference, and I don’t mean in terms of coverage.

In the below photo, you see the nice bright white of the first coat of ceiling paint, from the Zinsser brand. Beautiful. But if you look closer, you can see the “smoking room white” ceiling color on the edges, courtesy of the Glidden brand. I do NOT recommend.

Maybe I just had a dud, one that was stored incorrectly, mixed a little wrong, or had been sitting just a little too long. And of course there’s no expiration date on the paint can, nor could I find a manufacturing date to even guess at its age.

In terms of appearance, everything looked fine once I gave it a good stir. Stirring the paint before using is good practice to do every time, but it becomes necessary when the can of paint has been sitting for a while.

There was no foul or rancid smell, no weird growth or chunks, and no discoloration…until it dried. Mother fu….now I have to go back over the faint, yet noticeable weird yellow tinge. This right here is exactly why I am rightfully suspicious when things go according to plan, without a hitch.

Ah, well. You win some, you lose some, right? All I know is I am never buying that brand again. I’ve bought 3 cans of the Zinsser brand ceiling paint so far, and no problems whatsoever. Beautiful coverage, excellent results, every time.

Meanwhile, we’re getting closer to finishing the development of our paint palette for the house. Deciding on simplicity, we’re going with one neutral color for the majority of the house, and different colors in the bedrooms.

Depending on what our neutral color selection looks like in the dining room, we may opt for a different hue in that room as well, or merely to break things up a bit. I will certainly not be springing for any “abstract” wall paint ideas.

That’s why people purchase artwork to hang on the walls. They can easily take it down when they decide a piece no longer suits their taste, or when they realize that it was a terrible, impulsive choice in the first place. It’s ok, we’ve all been there, I’m sure. 😉

The laundry and pantry walls are also mended, now we’re doing the mud/sand/wipe/mud dance with the seams now. After that is finished and set, we’ll be priming with this mold and mildew resistant primer, following with a moisture-resistant satin or semi-gloss paint, and sealing with this kitchen and bath sealer and protectant.

Once we finish the walls, I can finally finish installing the lovely LVP tile that we selected. After installing the baseboards, we can move the washer back to its rightful place. This means there’s only one more room to install flooring in: the master bathroom.

Image by Ryan McGuire from Pixabay Meme by JenH@musecalmind

Unfortunately, we haven’t been able to touch the master bath remodel for quite a while. Between cycling through the different icks of cold and flu season and other projects taking priority, it’s been a couple of months since we’ve touched it.

Not to mention, we can’t seem to settle on what kind of shower/tub setup we would like to see in there. Standalone tub with overhead shower setup? Another all-in-one fiberglass shower/tub combo? Or shower panels with a separately purchased tub?

I know that the common all-in-one tub/shower combo is the most cost-effective, however I think the master bath should have something more elegant and attractive yet sensible. The first option speaks to my old soul and love of vintage and antique-esque things, but that price tag gives me pause.

Note: Bear in mind that none of these options displayed are at the high end. They’re about mid range in quality and price.

Whichever option we end up going with, I’m definitely getting a dual handle shower, and then upgrading to dual shower heads. The dual handles are mostly a preference, but it also imparts a vintage feel. I prefer having two shower heads with one being detachable, as this comes in handy for washing my large dog when it’s too cold to do it outside.

Master Closet #1

Moving right along with the master closet, we’ve patched and sanded except a few spots that need a touch-up. This week I also did some caulking where necessary. We’re almost ready for paint!

I cannot even begin to express how happy I will be to finally have this closet remodel finished and painted. Going without a closet has made me feel like I’m glamping/living out of a bag, in a way. Everything feels disorganized and messy when one doesn’t have proper storage, ya know?

Additionally, after my closet is finished I will finally be able to clean out the pink room in the garage. I can’t wait to finish tearing it down and open up the garage the rest of the way across. We’ve also be repurposing the drywall we’ve been removing from there to patch up different areas around the house.

Repurposing things speaks to my soul, and I do it whenever and wherever I can. It’s great for my wallet, and our planet. To be frank, it has a much bigger impact than paper straws (wrapped in plastic) or trying to do away with plastic shopping bags (yet not changing food packaging away from plastic), or any of the other good spirited but impractical ideas people keep coming up with.

Anyway, what else are we up to? We are getting ready to build a 40’x 60’chicken yard, looking forward to moving our plants outside whenever the weather wants to stop freezing our tails off, and looking to replace our living room furniture.

Presently, we have one couch that’s barely hanging in there, and it gets crowded each evening. Is there a particular furniture brand or store that you love? Please comment below!

As always, any tips, advice, or constructive criticism is always welcome! Let’s keep it respectful and relevant and I hope everyone has a fantastic weekend!

DIY Home Improvement Projects

Current Home Improvement Project

March 10, 2024 Jen HLeave a comment

Part 5: Mud and Taping My Closet and Painting Bedroom #1

Drywall work is much harder than it looks. Which is exactly why we are still working on the drywall in my closet, though it’s inching closer and closer to completion. Then we can finally prime and paint! It’s worth pointing out that ceiling drywall work was much harder than dear husband anticipated.

As he was trying to mud and tape the ceiling, part of the tape strip fell down and slapped him with drywall mud. After untangling himself and cleaning up, he called it a day. I can’t say I blame him, for that or the tirade of obscenities he bellowed out afterward.

Mold

Where are we at with the mold? Well, after multiple applications of a mixture of borax + water, I’m happy to report that there is no longer any mold. As a matter of fact, when looking up at floor from the basement I can see where the borax solution penetrated all the way through the subfloor, killing any mold in its path. Thus, I conclude that this is the superior cleaning method.

I’m tempted to perform some overkill with another round of bleach and/or peroxide as well. Why? Because mold is a nasty bugger that can be difficult to eradicate if you don’t catch it right away. It’s a darn shame that home inspectors aren’t allowed to peak into the walls of wet rooms, via inserting a tiny camera with a light on a cable or something. That would have saved us a lot of headache.

Anyway, my husband decided he wanted to do his own overkill method by pouring straight borax powder on the crevices. I said “Go for it. I’m all for overkill when it comes to mold.” He even made a paper funnel to get it into the area of the studs behind the studs.

I may just take it a step even further and put this primer with fungicide on the subfloor before we install the LVP tile over it.

Paint

Last week, I completed the closet and the first half of bedroom #1, including the ceiling. This week, I painted the second half of bedroom #1. I have to say, that tip from the video in the previous post about rolling the inside corners first, especially where the ceiling meets the wall, made the rest of it go swimmingly.

Why? For one thing, you spend much less time straining your neck while painting the ceiling. Secondly, using a paint roller sleeve that is covered by the nap at one end enables you to really get the paint all the way in those corners, and hit the leading edges of each wall all at the same time.

Third, you don’t have to worry about splotchy spots or scrapes from a roller with two open ends in those areas because it’s already covered, and you only have to go up to the edge of those lines. Truth be told it’s still a pain to do those corners, but not as painful as it used to be.

*Note: I also recommend using this color changing ceiling paint. It’s great for letting you see your coverage, as well as knowing when it’s dry and ready for another coat.

Long of the short, it’s all ready to go for whatever tranquil shade of blue we decide to go with. On that note, allow me to point out that picking paint colors is more complex than you might think, at least if you’re doing it right.

Nearly every aspect of a room affects how the color appears on the wall:

Furnishing choices
Natural light in the room throughout the day
Décor selections
Flooring choices
Lighting
The type of ceiling you have
The number of windows and choice of window treatments
Adjacent wall colors
The color of the trim

And probably a host of other things I’m not aware of because I’m not an interior designer. Taking all of this into consideration can be overwhelming.

Image by Vilius Kukanauskas from Pixabay

The current times have the price of a paint sample from Lowes at $7. A year or two ago I believe it was close to $3-4. It’s insane how the prices of everything have skyrocketed. Thankfully, paint swatches are still free, which is a good place to start in your hunt for the perfect color. I always use those first to narrow down my choices.

It’s worth noting that in my experience paint often turns out to be 1-2 shades lighter than it seems on the swatch. Thus, I still recommend purchasing a paint sample before committing to 1+ gallons of paint that are currently (as of the writing of this article) about $30-$70/gallon.

*Note: Besides confirming your proposed color selection, samples also come in handy for minor touch-ups.

Whoa…I love that shade of green but that is a lot of green in one room.
Photo by Spacejoy on Unsplash

Before you go selecting colors or purchasing samples, there is one important question to ask yourself: Are you really wanting to paint the walls, or could you do a simpler (and more cost effective) refresh, like changing the rug, the curtains, some fun pillow covers, perhaps?

If the answer is still a resounding yes, I am writing a separate post just for you on how to pick the right paint color(s). I will be sure to link to it here when it is finished.

To sum up, we are nearly finished with the drywall work in my closet, and the mold issue in the laundry room has successfully been remediated. Bedroom #1 is refreshed and brought to a clean, neutral white, ready for color. Next on the to-do list is patching the wall in the pantry and laundry room, bringing bedroom #2 to a basic clean white in preparation for color, priming my closet, and patching random holes in the drywall throughout the house like the one pictured below.

What else is going on? We’re recovering from the flu, tending seedlings for our spring garden, reworking family schedules, and soon I will be butchering my first couple of chickens for our freezer. As the weather continues to warm up, I’ll be hatching chicks for the first time to replace them.

How about you, readers? What colors inspire you, calm you, or bring you joy? Are there colors you simply cannot stand at all? Let me know in the comments below!

DIY Home Improvement Projects

Current Home Improvement Project Part 4: More Drywall Work

February 22, 2024 Jen HLeave a comment

This week we are focusing on 2 large tasks, and a host of small ones. The 2 large goals we set for the week are finishing the drywall installation in my closet, and mudding and taping the seams.

The smaller goals include continuing the battle against the mold in the laundry/pantry area, and continuing to paint the first kids’ room. The present goal there is to bring it from a dark, dreary hue back to white, ready for a more buoyant, relaxing color.

After installing the drywall, the next step is to backfill any drywall seams bigger than 1/8″ with joint compound a.k.a. drywall mud. This is done before mudding and taping to help prevent any cracks later on down the road. This step is pictured below. Note: you may have to repeat this step 2-3 times depending on the size of the gap.

After the backfill mud is completely dry, we can mud and tape the seams. We like to use Fiba Mesh Tape, which is self-adhering rather than having to do a sort of Papier-mâché with regular non-adhesive paper tape. It is a bit more expensive, but to us it’s worth it.

TIP: Multiple layers of joint compound may be needed for this step, with sufficient drying time between applications. This prevents your drywall from getting soggy/spongy. When applying, I like to think of it like icing a cake, just a long straight one. Some ladies might liken it to applying foundation. But I bake more often than I wear foundation, so I think of icing.

First, you slap on a good glob of this stuff, then pull it down with a putty knife in a straight line, leaving about 1/4″-1/2″ thick layer of it for the next part, feathering. This is the diagonal spreading of the mud from the center (seam) to each side in a sweeping motion, leaving short swaths of gradually thinner drywall mud as you move away from the seams.

Think karate kid: Wax on, Wax off. Except we’re not doing a circle here, just some short, stubby rays of sunshine.

Tip: When finished, you should no longer be able to see the tape. This helps to blend the drywall seams into the rest of the wall, instead of visible humps.

I know it’s not a drywall seam, because we haven’t done that part yet. Nevertheless, it illustrates the difference quite well.

If we get around to it this week, next we’ll be sanding the drywall seams in my closet. This is to further smooth and blend the joint compound we applied in the last steps. We don’t want to leave uneven lumps or lines in our feathered mud. These will also stick out like a sore thumb after painting.

We like to use our oscillating tool for this, with the sander attachments. The sand paper bits we use were black and 120 grit. There is a 12V version of the oscillating tool that is significantly lower-priced and works just fine for this task, I just couldn’t seem to find it on Amazon with the right attachments.

Note: I also recommend the lower powered one because it’s lighter, and this is a task you really want to take your time with.

Sanding with the oscillating tool does create a lot of dust, like a bag of flour exploding. But that’s kind of par for the course when sanding anything, whether using hand or power tools. We still prefer it as It’s quick, efficient, and less tiring on the body.

Note: a light touch is needed for this. We’re not trying to undo all our hard work in the previous steps.

Think like a mess you might find in your kitchen if your kids decided to secretly bake your birthday cake at 4 in the morning…but at least there won’t be egg everywhere with this, right?
Photo by Gustavo Fring

TIP: Be mindful of the angle of the sander as well, so as not to create gouges in the joint compound. I also highly recommend having a second battery ready to go on the charger rather than having to stop and wait for a single battery to charge.

All of these individual tasks are things that are difficult to explain and you have to just do it and get a feel for it. It feels kind of like trying to paint in the dark at first. Once you start getting a feel for it, it feels like you’re a kid who likes to color on the walls and you’re trying to figure out how to do it without getting into trouble.

Whoever’s kid did this hardcore playground graffiti certainly figured out how to not get caught LOL.

Right now, my husband and I are both at an impasse, while we wait for different things to dry. Him for the second layer of backfill on the drywall seams, and I for the second coat of paint.

Tomorrow, I will be applying the second coat of ceiling paint. I highly recommend this video for learning how to do it properly. When that is dry, I can shift all my son’s belongings to the finished side of the room so I can paint the second half next week. Also next week, we will hopefully be taping, mudding, and sanding.

Fellow DIYers, handymen/women, professionals, feel free to comment any tips or tricks below! I also welcome constructive feedback, but let’s keep it clean, respectful, and relevant.

DIY Home Improvement Projects

Current Home Improvement Project Part 3:

February 18, 2024 Jen HLeave a comment

Hard Stop on the Flooring Install

At this point, we are finished installing the new flooring, all except two rooms: the laundry room/bathroom on the first floor, and the Master Bathroom on the 2^nd. The master bathroom will have to wait until we are finished adjusting the plumbing for whichever type of body washing station we decide to install.

The laundry room bathroom, however, is a different story. During the process of removing the old linoleum, I encountered a setback: mold. It was clinging to the baseboard I pulled off the wall, and the bottom of the linoleum. I had a bad gut feeling that it didn’t end there.

I didn’t stop to take a photo of the nasty linoleum, because it was gross and contained sharp edges.

Thus, since I couldn’t continue with the new flooring install until it was eradicated anyway, I decided to open up this hot mess of a wall beside the washer to see if there was mold there too. Sure as 2+2=4, there was. It was only a question of just how high up it went. Shrugging, I thought to myself, “Well, I have to tear out that whole botched repair section anyway to fix it. Let’s start there.” Dear God.

While nowhere near as bad as it could be, it still turned my stomach to touch that hairy drywall. I could feel the nasty, festering fibers through my gloves. Armored with protective gear, and bleach spray at the ready, I disinfected, gutted, and bagged it. I hoped it would end there. Yet, the logical part of my brain (coupled with many years of raw life experience) said “Nope.” Sure enough:

Unfortunately, it is in the layers of the plywood subfloor. In case you don’t know, pulling up builder-grade installed subfloor is a massive pain. What’s worse is when you’re removing it because it’s water damaged and moldy/mildewy. Why? Because it crumbles and splinters apart, instead of coming off in one or two big chunks.

I went through that upstairs in the master bathroom. The previous owners had failed to repair the rubber seam strip at the bottom of the old shower stall that was meant to protect the floor from water seepage/shower spray (pictured below).

This is 100% preventable, people. And it is such an easy, quick, and inexpensive fix!

All that mess, all because of this not being fixed in a timely fashion:

Stay vigilant ya’ll. Water is great…until it ends up where you don’t want it and *ruins* your house.

Back to the topic at hand: the mold problem downstairs. I thought please, PLEASE let this be the end of it. Going without a washer until we repair the laundry room floor, or figuring out how to re-pipe the water lines to move the laundry downstairs (at least temporarily) is headache enough. Wrong again.

The Pantry

To my dismay, I discovered the exact same problem on the other side of that wall, in our pantry. However, there wasn’t much mold on the baseboard or drywall. It was worse…this rancid affliction seems to have contaminated some of the studs, the studs behind those studs, and infected the subfloor on this side as well.

And so, instead of a simple removal of the old floor, installation of the new floor….we now not only have to remediate the mold, potentially relocate our laundry, tear up the subfloor, tear open the walls, and possibly replace a few 2×4’s. All to repair a problem that was not properly dealt with in the first place.

TIP: If you have a pipe leak or flooding of any kind inside your home, keep an eye out for mold. Here’s how to deal with it if it occurs:

Step 1: Shut off the water supply at local shutoff valves if the area has them. If not, shut off the main water supply.

Step2: Fix the leaking pipe or source of flooding.

Step 3: DRY everything out thoroughly by soaking up and/or removing the water and using a space heater to dry it the remainder of the way as long as it is safe to do so. Emphasis on thoroughly.

Step 4: Watch out for mold. If it starts to creep up, tenaciously kill the crap out of it. Bleach, peroxide, or vinegar are all tried and true methods we have discovered. Or screw it, smite it with all three, alternating which one you’re using. Never mix household chemicals. Or ye might smite thyself. It may take a while, (weeks or months to completely eradicated it depending on the severity) but remain steadfast and DEAL with it.

Step 5: Only when you are 100%, bet-your-life-on-it-sure that ZERO mold or moisture remains, patch the wall back up, the right way. TIP: What you use depends on how big the whole is. According to the Natural Family Handyman, a general rule-of-thumb for drywall repairs is as follows:

Holes up to about 1/2″ can be filled with most wall patching compounds, such as drywall compound or light duty spackle.
Holes between 1/2″ and 6″ can be repaired with a piece of drywall and drywall compound.
Holes larger than 6″ can be repaired with a piece of drywall and drywall compound but should have reinforcing wood strips installed in the wall to support the drywall edges.
Since wall studs are a maximum of 14 1/2″ apart, very large repairs will bridge across one or more studs. We’ll talk about large repairs in another article.

If things go horribly wrong, or you feel the repair is above your paygrade (you lack the required skills or comprehension), don’t be afraid to call in a professional. Better safe than sorry. Whatever you do, don’t be the like the Cumberworlds ¹ that ignored it and thus left this problem to us.

by https://www.reddit.com/user/Crescent-Argonian/

Back to the Closet

I’m going back into my closet to party with my skeletons, ya’ll. On a serious note, since we are at a kill, and kill again phase with the mold problem downstairs, I am back to working on my closet upstairs in between murderous spraying sessions.

Besides, I am at an impasse with Project Turn the Garage Back into a Flippin’ Garage until we finish my closet. (Pictured below is where I’m at with the garage.) At that point, we can finally relocate our closet effects into my closet since it will be finished first. We still have plumbing to relocate before we can finish his. The Garage undertaking will be a separate post.

In any case, last week we purchased and carried the drywall upstairs. The second part of that ordeal was thanks to my brother coming to the rescue to help my husband carry it. There is no way in hell I can help carry 104+lbs of drywall 4 times up the stairs. Thanks Jon!

Consequently, I was not so ruthless as to ask my husband to do anything for the rest of the weekend. Nothing involving heavy lifting anyway 😉. This week we are finally in the process of installing it. The side walls aren’t too much trouble, just cutting around outlets and/or switches as needed.

Just look at those clean lines! First time for everything and I think I nailed it!

For the doorway, however, we needed some special tools, at least according to an article I read at thisoldhouse.com. First, I purchased a jab saw (paid link), Dewalt of course. I have yet to be disappointed by a single Dewalt tool we have bought. Then a rasp, for cleaning up the ragged edges. This Jorgenson one (paid link, pictured below) is phenomenal! Seriously it is a dream to use. It has been my experience that Jorgenson is also a quality tool brand.

Here’s why I love it so much: the ergonomic grip, and the extra tab grip on the end, down to the easy thumb tension screw for quick blade changes. Speaking of the blade, that thing is sturdy and substantial! I feel like I could shave up rock sculptures with it, even though I only bought it for sheetrock.

Last but certainly not least, I bought these oscillating tool blades (paid link) specifically made for drywall. I absolutely had my doubts when I saw where they were made, but they have been the best cutting tool in my arsenal for this job.

I still used the jab saw for cleaning up my cuts and precutting corners. Precutting your corners helps ensure that you don’t cut past where you want to stop. It also came in handy for smaller cuts like cutting around switches and outlets.

It’s worth noting that, unless you do this for a living (or a similar task), and possess the strength and endurance required for hand-sawing a doorway hole in drywall (hats off to you, I salute you sir/ma’am), the oscillating tool (with a proper drywall blade) is a necessity.

I am just a slightly overweight, currently out-of-shape, busted up vet. Honestly, I’m still trying to get my strength back from my shoulder injury 3 years ago. Not gonna lie, I’m weak as hell right now. So, I need the help of power tools at the moment. (If this is you, don’t feel bad. No judgment here. Besides, power tools are fun and sexy.)

Some lessons learned from this project:

Installing the outer doorway side before cutting allows you to use the studs as your guide, cutting it out from the inside of the closet. Obviously you will need a friend to install it from the other side. It is much easier to make the cutouts after hanging it so you don’t have to do a bunch of measurements.
After removing the door casing, and before you get stuck behind the drywall, don’t forget to tap or remove the nails that were holding it on. Or you can just take a hammer in with you.
Also before you get stuck behind the drywall, double tap that you have all the tools you could possibly need for the task. If push comes to shove and you forgot something, you can always cut a hole in the part you are cutting away anyway and your buddy can hand it to you. Or if they walked off to the bathroom and you don’t feel like waiting for them to come back, you can cut a hole big enough to walk through and get it yourself like you should’ve done in the first place lol.
Don’t underestimate the amount of dust you are about to kick up, especially using the oscillating tool. Be ready with your safety gear (ear and eye protection, and an N95 mask or respirator). I also like to throw on a bandana so I don’t get as much drywall dust in my hair. But hey, if you have oily roots, screw it, you can leave your hair exposed and use it as a dry shampoo.
Obviously, don’t blind-cut around any switches or outlets, or even try to cut around them with the drywall installed. Even if you measured, or even if you can see where you’re cutting, you don’t want to accidently electrocute yourself. Measure and pre-cut those before hanging the drywall.
If you are shorter than the doorway, don’t forget a stepladder for cutting the top of the doorway. Proper leverage isn’t just for safety, but also precision and comfort.
Be mindful of the outward pressure you may be exerting while cutting, to avoid breakage of the parts of the drywall you would like to stay attached.

For cleanup, once again I’m reaching for my handy dandy Dewalt shop vacuum. Trust me, do NOT put drywall dust through your poor household vacuum cleaner that already has to deal with you and/or your family’s hair, pet hair, dust mites, crumbs, and whatever else you put it through. It will quit on you faster than it should, and before it does that, it may start screaming at you like this:

Yes, quite unpleasant. I can’t use it anymore without earpro. Do yourself a favor and learn from our silly mistakes. In other news, in between hanging drywall and killing mold, I’m working on painting our childrens’ bedrooms. Goodbye, mournful mauve paint.

Currently, there’s only one coat on half of the room, but it already makes such a difference. I am excited to pick out the color (with our son’s input) and go from hotel towel white to an uplifting, yet relaxing hue.

Caption: It ain’t pretty, but it is sure as heck less ugly.

To sum it up, we’re still working the master bathroom remodel, battling mold, drywalling my closet, and painting our kids’ bedrooms right now. It seems like a lot to be doing at once, but when you consider that each project requires drying times at some point in the process, it’s not bad.

We’re also trying to decide how we would like to do our stairs, now that we have the old, nasty, carpet ripped off of it. There will be a separate post about the ins and outs of that project when we are finished with it. For now, they will just have to be naked. At least they’re clean.

All of these projects keep me productive and working towards our goals for our house, rather than just being stuck. Which in turn, helps me stay out of my head and keep my PTSD in check. Now I want to hear from you! Are there any tips, tricks, or tools of the trade for mold remediation, repairing water damage, drywall, or painting that anyone would like to share? Please comment below!

Stay tuned for the next episode of our Current Home Improvement Project.

Also called a cumberground—someone who is so useless, they just serve to take up space. (Jones, 2023) ↩︎